Q: When I visit the breeder, what should I look for?
A: Are the dogs living inside or outside? Are they clean and fairly well mannered? Do they greet guests happily? Do they appear healthy and well fed? How does the house/facility smell? Does it look clean? Does the breeder require you to remove shoes and wash hands prior to handling very young babies?

Q: What should I look for in the puppy itself?
A: Is the puppy happy and inquisitive? Does he come up to you readily, or hide behind his siblings and mom? Does he appear to be fairly clean and well fed? Are his eyes bright and alert? Observe him walk/run/play; is he moving freely and easily? Hold and cuddle the pup, does he accept your attentions or struggle to get free? Please do not attempt to perform a "temperament test" on the pup, unless you are experienced at this and have the breeders prior permission, you could cause serious injury to a young pup. Instead, inquire about whether this has been done, and what the results were. There may be a video of the event.

Q: How long should I expect to wait for a puppy?
A: 6 to 9 months is not unreasonable.

Q: Why does the breeder ask so many personal questions of me?
A: The breeder should be just as concerned as you, if not more so, that her puppy is going to the best possible home for it. The breeder is responsible for that puppy for the rest of it's life, and that is a very serious commitment. The breeder should request that you inform her in the event that someday you cannot keep the dog. PLEASE DO SO. The breeder should also be sure you are aware that she is available for your questions and concerns now and in the future.

Q: What type of health certifications should I look for?
A: For hips, you should be given an OFA certificate with a number and rating. For eyes, you should get a CERF certificate with a clear rating; patellas may be OFA or from their own vet; heart should preferably be from a veterinary cardiologist, breeders own vet is better than nothing. Any breeder who is insulted about you asking for written proof PRIOR to buying the puppy, is one from whom I would NEVER buy a puppy.

Q: When you get your new puppy, what should you ask your vet to pay special attention to at the 1st visit?
A: Always have your vet check heart, ears, eyes, anal glands, teeth, stools (take one with you). As has been said, a good vet will check these things without being asked.

Q: What is the optimal age for a CKCS to leave his/her litter?
A: People who are die-hard obedience types insist on getting their dogs at 7 weeks of age exactly; the theory is that the new puppy will "bond" to the owner rather than its littermates and mother. Anyone who knows Cavaliers, knows they will "bond" at any age to a worthy owner. They should never, ever be taken away from their home until at least this age. Depending on the situation, I personally allow mine to go after their 8 week shots and eye checks. However, I try to keep in close touch for a few weeks, to keep things on track. From 8 - 11 weeks is considered the first fear period and can actually go anywhere up to around 14 months. This is a crucial period as it will determine the dogs social wellbeing for the future; therefore this is a time to be careful with placements as a breeder and be kind and conscientious as a new owner. In humans this crucial time frame is currently considered to be about 5 years. If the puppy is to be flown to their new owner, the individial temperament of the dog must be critically evaluated and extra care/thought taken (with regard to imprinting during this "fear" period).

A: I believe it may illegal in most if not all states to sell a puppy before it is 8 weeks old. It is not considered 'ethical' to let a puppy go before it is 8 weeks old according to the CKCSC Code of Ethics.

Q: Is it best to find a breeder first, then choose the dog?
A: If you are a first time buyer I believe the best choice is to find a breeder you trust and count on their expertise to find the right dog for your situation. I evaluate all my puppies and place them in the homes best suited to the puppy. If you are buying from a knowledgeable breeder don't be offended if you are not given a "choice" from the litter; i.e. if you have children in the family, it could prove unwise to choose a "cute" puppy who may be shy and uncertain - your situation would be much better suited to an outgoing, full-speed-ahead little guy. Remember, also, that you may have to wait - there are no "express lanes" to the right puppy.

Q: Do all reputable breeders give references to prospective owners? (Others who have purchased dogs from previous litters?)
A: Hopefully - if not, ask.

Q: The AKC and CKCS pages on the Internet I have visited all refer to a contract with the breeder. Where do I get a copy of a form for a contract so that I can intelligently discuss points on it with the breeder?
A: The Canadian Kennel Club has a Non Breeding Agreement - but each breeder has individual contracts. There may not be a generic one available ahead of time so just make sure you read anything you are going to sign carefully. Usually, pet contracts are simple and straight forward. The show/breeding ones become a little more complicated. Talk to other breeders or owners of registered dogs to get their input. Personally, I believe a contract should benefit both signing parties, so if you feel like you are being "taken", you probably are!

Q: Are there specific legal clauses endemic to specific states or are the contracts pretty much the same from state to state? That is, is breeding more regulated by one state or another? To be a breeder, does the breeder have to have a license from the state, from the AKC, from the Cavalier Club? If a breeder is not listed with the AKC, what does that mean? If the breeder is not listed with the Cavalier club, what does that mean?
A: In Canada anyone can be a breeder - no specific license is necessary. The only thing keeping everyone from doing it, I guess, are municipal (area) bylaws, restricting numbers. Of course, there are other factors - money, interest, and whether one has the insane desire to be perpetually humbled!

A:Yes you should clean the eyes otherwise the tears will rot the hair surrounding them. Dab gently with tissue or cotton wool. DON'T RUB this causes the eyes to run more making the problem worse. When we first started showing we heard a lot of old wives tales about putting grease of vasaline around the eyes to stop staining around the eyes, this doesn't work because it attracts dirt which sticks to it. The others dogs will also lick at it making the eyes run much more.

Q: What advice can you give a novice to help determine if the Cavalier is getting too heavy?
A: Stand over your dog, and place your thumbs on his spine, with your fingers draped down over his rib cage. Move your fingers gently over his ribs. You should be able to EASILY feel his ribs. If you cannot, chances are your boy (or girl) is getting a bit hefty. While standing over your dog, look down at him; can you see a definate waist line? Just behind the rib cage, and under all that fur, it should still be there.

A: I believe Im right in saying that most Cavaliers tend to the upper end of these preferred weights. However, that is not the point when looking at your pet Cavvie. My rule of thumb for any dog is that you should be able to feel the ribs, but not see them. The dog should have a slight "waist". If you cannot feel the ribs, cut back on the food a bit. If you can see the ribs, feed him up.

Q: Any tips to tell if the dog is in good shape or is getting a bit flabby?
A: Can he go for a brisk walk with you and keep up, or does he get out of breath to quickly? Can he run and chase that ball? Does he enjoy it, or does he want to go lie down?

Q: What kind of toys do CKCS particularly like to play with?
A: It certainly varies - I can say they seem to destroy the most expensive/cutest toys with the most glee (and speed). I suggest buying some "fake" lambswool type of material and sew a few similar shapes pieces (eg. bone shaped or be creative) together (stacked ontop of themselves) with no stuffing. Great for tugging, cuddling, carrying, fetching. When any stuffed articles come into this house, I just know I'll have some cleaning up to do.

Q: Can my CKCS tolerate another dog / another CKCS?
A: For sure, but remember the possible size/weight difference and be reasonable. If you have an older, more sedate, large dog, this could work out nicely. If you put a boxer puppy with a cavalier puppy, for example, you might be in for some problems - boxers like to "box" and that can mean a cracked back or crunched toe for a Cav. Think about the "style" of play for the different breeds and you'll all be okay.

Q: What should I know about getting another CKCS when I already have one?
A: I advise that you never get two of the same age at the same time. However, bringing in a second when the first is older and housetrained, shouldn't create any problems of note. Just remember to give the older one the same amount of attention he got before the arrival of #2. Hopefully you won't have two "dominant" personalities, and one will lead and one will follow. Don't be surprised though if #2 eventually leads "the pack". We tend to think it will always be the older one and this is often not the case. Also, don't be surprised if a bitch is dominant over a male...this is quite normal.

A: When placing a dog in a home where there is already a older dog, it is best to place either a young puppy (8 to 12 weeks) or a dog of the opposite sex as the resident dog. This is so you won't have problems with the two dogs fighting to establish the alpha (or dominant leader) dog, which is the situation that you are describing. As much as we would like to treat Cavaliers as little people, they are still dogs, with all of the instinctive canine behavior patterns that are so necessary in the wild. They can also have definite dislikes for particular dogs. Just as two women can take an unreasonable, permanent and unexplainable dislike for each other so can two dogs, particularly female Cavaliers. This doesn't happen often.

Q: Will my CKCS run away if I don't have a securely fenced yard?
A: If anything happens around your house of interest, you can be guaranteed he'll "run away". He may come back if he doesn't get killed or stolen......so, please have a fenced yard - I tell puppy purchasers "You're spending good $$$ for this puppy, keep him safe (like you would do for a small child)".

Q: How much should my Cavalier weigh?
A: The breed standard calls for a height of 12 to 13 inches at the withers, and a weight proportionate at 13 to 18 pounds. HOWEVER, a great many pet Cavaliers are a good deal larger than the standard allows. This includes bone structure, height and weight. The largest Cavalier I ever met was 34 pounds!

Q: If it has been many years (in my case, about 20) since you have had experience caring for a pet, what is the best book to read about training a dog (not just housebreaking, but establishing yourself as the leader of the pack, so to speak)?
A: One of the best books I've read in this regard is HOW TO RAISE A PUPPY YOU CAN LIVE WITH by Rutherford and Neil. I supply this book to all my puppy purchasers.

Q: If you want two dogs, like we do, a Blenheim and a Ruby, is it better for them to be of the same litter? Of the same sex? If so, why?
A: I do not believe you should ever get two puppies from the same litter. Proper housetraining is difficult enough with one - two just drags the situation on forever. When one puppy is completely trained (from 9 - 14 months) that's the time to start again (and it will be a lot faster the second time). Sex is not an important factor, if the dogs are to be neutered/spayed I believe the more important factor is the temperament of each animal (two dominant dogs can cause some discord, to say the least) so again, it is essential that the breeder knows your situation.

Q: If your friend (who is local) says there are no vets locally who are experts in Cavaliers, how do you choose a vet for your dog, other than on the recommendation of friends who you know to be responsible dog owners?
A: Same way you choose a human doctor - can you talk to them, do they take the time to explain things to you and are their fees within reason. If they haven't had many Cavaliers in their practice, are they willing to learn/read information you provide? I think my vet has learned a lot from me (especially about my bank account).

Q: Where does one find out about the rules for dog shows and learn the lingo?
A: Find a good breeder, talk to everyone who is involved and will listen and attend shows and sanction matches.

Q: What makes a champion (other than the fact that AKC judges agreed that the dog meets the breed standard)?
A: You read the standard and see how the dog meets up to your critique. There are a ton a "champions" living in pet homes, never having been in a ring. Quality is the true measure. That being said, if you want a "champion" you have to show up in the ring and prove it. It's sort of like looking at a fruit bowl full of apples and one orange and asking which orange is the best one. It may be an orange ("champion") but was it the best piece of fruit?