|
Home
|
Flash's
Helpful Hint of the Week
Each week, Flash's Helpful Hint of the Week presents a brief advisory essay concerning a matter of health, safety, or efficiency. The advisories are intended to make your life better and - who knows? - maybe even save it. Visitors are invited to log on each week
for a new advisory; and to check out past advisories, which are archived
on this webpage.
For the week beginning May 13, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #82 In the previous edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, I enumerated the most common forms of nursing home abuse and/or neglect. In this edition, I will tell you how to recognize the signs of such abuse and/or neglect. When you go to a nursing home to visit a loved one, check for the following: The smell of feces and/or urine. Such odors indicate that improper attention is being paid to the resident’s personal hygiene needs. Emaciation and/or dehydration; signs that the resident is not receiving adequate food and/or drink. Fall injuries and/or other injuries, which could be the result of the staff not taking adequate precautions to prevent falls and/or not providing adequate assistance to non-ambulatory residents. The presence of bedsores (known also as “pressure sores”, “pressure ulcers”, or “decubitus ulcers”). Bedsores suggest strongly that a bedridden resident is not having his or her position changed with sufficient frequency. Disorientation, which could be a sign that the resident is being over-medicated or under-medicated. Any kind of a rash on the skin. Skin rashes sometimes can be caused by unclean clothing and/or bed linens. Dirt on the face, hands, or body. The presence of dirt indicates that the resident is not being properly tub-bathed or sponge-bathed. Bruises around the wrists and/or ankles; very likely the result of the use of physical restraints. Stuporous behavior, which could be caused by a staff employing chemical agents as a means of restraint. Fractured bones, torn skin, contusions, lesions - all the usual signs of physical abuse. Depression, mood changes, and mood swings; exactly what you would expect to find in someone living under miserable, unhappy conditions. When the staff knows darn well that they are not treating the residents properly, they may employ abuse or threats of abuse as a means of discouraging residents from complaining about - or reporting to outsiders – the sub-standard conditions under which they are living. As a consequence, a resident may retreat into his own world as his only means of escape. This may result in an inability or refusal to communicate with others. So now you know for what to look. But suppose that you do find evidence of nursing home abuse and/or neglect? What should you do about it? We will examine that question in the next edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints. Source: The Nursing Home Abuse
site at http://www.nursing-home-abuse.com
For the week beginning May 6, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #81 In the previous edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, I related a number of questions that you should ask when searching for a suitable nursing home or other long-term care facility for an elderly or chronically sick relative. In this edition, we will examine one of the most insidious problems in the health care field: Abuse and/or neglect of nursing home residents. The vast majority of nursing homes provide their charges with competent and sympathetic care. But a tiny minority of same are veritable dens of abuse and/or neglect. What causes nursing home abuse and/or neglect? Largely, it is a consequence of the facility trying to maximize profits by being hard-handed in the wrong areas - such as the wages paid to the attending staff. It is the law of supply and demand in its purest form. Those long-term care facilities that pay the best wages get the best caregivers. Those that pay sub-standard wages get sub-standard caregivers who - not surprisingly - give sub-standard care. Nursing home abuse and/or neglect takes
many forms. Listed below are just some of the most common
grievances:
Inadequate overall medical care. Lack of attention to a resident’s personal hygiene needs. Lack of attention to a resident’s nutrition and/or hydration. Inadequate precautions taken to prevent falls or other injuries. Failure to change with sufficient frequency the position of bedridden residents. Over-medication or under-medication. Failure to respond to call lights or call buzzers in a timely manner. Theft of residents’ money and/or personal effects. Unnecessary use of physical or chemical restraints. Slapping or other forms of physical abuse. Verbal or emotional abuse. Retaliation against complaining residents.
And I say again, those are just some of the most common grievances. Do not assume that such things can never happen to your elderly or chronically sick relative. Even if initially you put the long-term care facility and its staff under the highest-powered microscope before placing your loved one in their charge, things happen. Changes in the ownership and/or management and/or staff can bring changes in attitudes. What formerly was a capable and caring nursing home can turn overnight into a hotbed of abuse and/or neglect. Every state has laws to protect nursing home residents from abuse and/or neglect. But the problem with laws is that only the law-abiding obey them. Protecting your loved ones from nursing home abuse and/or neglect depends largely on you and your ability to recognize the signs of such abuse and/or neglect. And just what are the signs of nursing home abuse and/or neglect? I will tell you - in the next edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints. Source: The Nursing Home Abuse
site at http://www.nursing-home-abuse.com
For the week beginning April 29, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #80 In just about every household, there comes a time when the members of the family are forced to concede that they no longer can care properly for an elderly or chronically sick relative. When that happens, the painful decision must be made to move said relative into a long-term care facility, where he or she will receive professional medical attention on an around-the-clock basis. But if this is what must be done, you will want your relative to have the best care (and the best caring) possible. And that means investigating thoroughly a nursing home's operations, facilities, and staff before placing your loved one in their charge. But just how does one go about evaluating a long-term care facility? What questions should one ask? For what faults or deficiencies should one be looking? Below, you will find a number of questions
that will guide you in your search for a suitable nursing home. Be
aware that this list, even as long as it is, is not all-inclusive.
But it will give you a good start.
Regarding the nursing home’s operations: What is the full name and physical address of the facility, as well as its telephone numbers and e-Mail addresses? Who is the actual owner of the facility, and what is that owner’s business name, address, telephone numbers, and e-Mail addresses? Is the nursing home both Medicaid and Medicare certified? Does the facility maintain - and update periodically - its list of references? Has the facility posted in a conspicuous place a list of residents’ rights under state law? Does the facility have a particular cultural or religious affiliation? If so, is this of any importance to you? How far away from the nursing home is the
nearest family member?
As to the physical facilities: Is the atmosphere pleasant and as homelike as possible? Does the nursing home have a sprinkler system? Are fire extinguishers mounted throughout the facility in conspicuous and well-marked locations? Are all building exits clearly marked? Are the hallways clean, well-lighted, and free of clutter? Are there handrails in all hallways? Grab bars in all lavatory facilities? Is the facility as a whole well maintained and in good repair? Does the nursing home have an outdoor patio or outdoor garden where the residents can get some sunlight and fresh air? Is the furniture comfortable?
As to the staff: How many residents does each caregiver have under his or her direct supervision? Is the staff's training geared specifically towards the providing of long-term nursing care? Are the members of the staff professional in both appearance and attitude? Does the staff respond to call lights or call buzzers in a timely manner? Does the staff see to it that the residents are, at all times, appropriately dressed for the weather? Are the residents well groomed? Does the staff attend promptly to spills and other accidents? Does the staff do its best to address each resident’s individual needs? Does the staff do its best to encourage
each resident’s maximum independence?
Regarding the specifics of patient care: Is a certified dietician on staff? Can the facility handle special diets? Is the food both nutritious and tasty? Is the facility staffed and equipped to provide whatever speech or physical therapies a resident might require? Does the facility have contacts with outside volunteer groups? Are there residents' and family councils? Do residents and their family members have a say in care planning? In the event of a medical emergency, is there a hospital nearby? What pre-arrangements, if any, has the nursing home made with that hospital? Are the residents afforded at all times
the dignity and respect that the elderly – indeed, all human beings – deserve?
Finally, those intangibles: Are residents allowed to have personal effects in their rooms - even if it is only a framed family photograph to hang on the wall? What kind of recreational facilities/activities
does the nursing home make available? And by that I do not mean a
TV set in the lounge, three books in the bookcase, and bingo every Tuesday.
What I mean is, does the staff encourage the residents to form their own
groups for recreational activities? Does the facility have contacts
with outside community/volunteer groups - groups to which the residents
may yet have something to contribute? Do the activities really challenge
the residents and give them a reason to get up in the morning? In
other words, in this facility, do the residents vegetate – or animate?
I say again, this list is just a start. You may have additional questions on matters of special concern to you and your loved one. In the next edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, we will examine one of the most insidious problems in the health care field: Abuse and/or neglect of nursing home residents. Source: The Nursing Home Abuse
site at http://www.nursing-home-abuse.com
For the week beginning April 22, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #79 One of the most popular foods in America is corn on the cob. Corn on the cob is as delicious as it is nutritious. And children love it because it is one of the few foods that they are allowed to hold in hand to eat. In fact, so much do Americans love corn on the cob, it often is part of the menu for the family cookout. The problem is, roasting ears of corn on an outdoor grill is a tricky proposition. The ears must be watched carefully and turned continually. Unfortunately - and despite the best efforts of even the most vigilant backyard chef - the corn almost always comes off of the grill pockmarked with unsightly scorched and/or shriveled kernels. Wrapping the ears in aluminum foil is only a half-solution at best. Even foil-wrapped corn may come off of the grill pockmarked with scorched and/or shriveled kernels. But fret not, brothers of the barbeque. Your humble Grand Master knows of a technique by which you can roast ears of corn on an outdoor grill - and to absolute perfection. Here is the method: Begin by pulling the husks down BUT NOT OFF. Next, remove and discard all of the silk. Then, soak the ears - husks and all - in a basin of water for at least ten minutes. After you have removed the ears from the water, you may then – if you wish - season the ears with salt. Finally, close the husks. You will want the husks to stay in close contact with the kernels of corn, so secure the husks either by a) binding the ears with clean cotton twine (like a butcher binding a roast); or b) rolling up the ears in a double layer of aluminum foil. Lay the prepared ears of corn on the grill and cook them over a medium heat for a total of twelve to sixteen minutes, rolling the ears a quarter turn every three to four minutes. The water-soaked husks will keep the kernels moist while at the same time protecting them from being scorched. When the full cooking time has elapsed, take ears off of the grill, unwrap the corn, and pull off the husks. The ears of corn will be completely appetizing to eye, with few - if any - scorched and/or shriveled kernels. And the taste? Superb beyond description! The kernels will be tender - yet firm. Your palette will think it has died and gone to heaven. No need to tell you how to store the leftovers. There will not be any. Trust me. Source: The Boy Scout Handbook
For the week beginning April 15, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #78 In the previous edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, I related a number of steps that you should take if you want the site for a child’s birthday party to be safe. In this edition, I will tell you how to ensure safety while the festivities are in progress. Regarding party food: Before finalizing the menu, consult with the parents of the invited to find out if their children have any food allergies (some allergic reactions can be fatal). It is not enough to tell the parents what dishes you intend to serve. What counts are the ingredients that go into those dishes. Do not serve any foods that present even the slightest choking hazard. These include, but are not limited to: Hard candy bits, peanuts, popcorn, and raisins. If hot dogs are part of the menu, slice the cooked wieners in half lengthwise before putting them into the buns for serving. It is dangerous for a child – or, for that matter, anyone else - to run around with a glass container in his or her hand. Serve beverages in paper or plastic cups. The pointed tines of a fork - even those of a plastic fork - can present a hazard. If the children are not old enough and/or mature enough to use forks safely, provide plastic spoons for all eating purposes. For safety's sake, it is best to declare the kitchen “off-limits” to all partygoers. But you know how it is with children - in one ear and out the other. So make sure that the kitchen is child safe. Among other things: Keep knives and other sharp objects out of reach; turn the handles of cooking pots towards the back of the stove; and do not let power cords (such as those on your toaster oven or electric frying pan) dangle over the edge of the counter. If the food is to be cooked on an outdoor barbecue, keep the children well away from the hot grill - ideally by setting up some kind of physical barrier. To preclude the possibility of burn injuries, do not serve food to the children directly from the barbecue area. Instead, place the cooked food on serving platters and set the platters on tables well away from the hot grill. But wherever you prepare the birthday meal, check to be sure that the cooked food is cool enough to eat before setting it on the table. See to it that the tablecloth (and the dishes thereon) cannot be pulled off of the table (either accidentally or mischievously). The tablecloth be may secured to the table by means of a number of padded spring clamps specially designed for this purpose. Such clamps are available commercially. In a pinch (no pun intended), a number of small carpenter’s “D” clamps (properly padded, of course) can serve the same purpose. Regarding party games: Doubtless, you will wish to organize a number of age-appropriate party games. But keep safety foremost in your mind. The games must not involve choking hazards or hazards involving sharp and/or pointed objects. Instead of playing the traditional “Pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey”, play one of the two updated and safer versions: “Tape-the-tail-on-the-mule” or “Velcro-the-tail-on-the-jackass”. The Mexican party custom of the breaking of the piñata (a hollow vessel filled with goodies) is so much fun, all cultures employ it now. But regardless of culture, consider the ages of the partygoers. It is not a good idea to place a stout stick into the hands of a child whose motor skills are not yet fully developed. If the children are too young to control the swinging stick, forego the piñata for a few years and hold a scavenger hunt instead. Before the guests arrive, hide some miniature baskets filled with small toys, animal crackers, or soft candies. Later on, invite the children to go seek. By the way, spread around a few extra baskets, so as to make sure that every child finds at least one. Most importantly, be certain that the goodies - whether placed in a piñata or a scavenger basket - present no choking hazards. Now, when it comes to the main event: If the birthday girl has long hair, secure it behind her head, lest her dangling locks catch fire as she leans forward to blow out the candles. Place the matches out of reach as soon as they no longer are needed to light the candles. Ditto the sharp kitchen knife after it no longer is needed to cut the cake. Finally: Unless the children live within walking distance, they will have to be picked up by their parents (assuming the parents did not stay to supervise, of course). So set a time for the party to end so that the parents will know when to come to pick up their children. There. You may now have your party. Safely, of course. As always, you're welcome. Sources: The Birthday Party
Safety sites at http://www.tnpc.com and http://www.epinions.com
For the week beginning April 8, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #77 As any child will tell you, birthday parties are the most fun a kid can have. However, with just one serious injury to a single partygoer, what began as a fun-filled get-together can turn instantly into a terrible nightmare. In the interest of precluding such tragedies, Flash’s Helpful Hints herewith presents the first of a two-part series on how to throw a safe birthday party. Regarding site preparation: The key to keeping a party safe is to keep it under control. And the key to keeping it under control is to keep it confined. If the party is to be an indoor affair, hold it in the largest room of the house (usually the living room), and close all of the other doors so that the children cannot wander beyond the designated area. Similarly, if the party is to be an outdoor affair, hold it in the backyard and secure all of the gates. If a bathroom does not adjoin the living room (or the back yard, as the case may be), you will have to provide an access corridor. If this is what must be done, simply close all of the other doors along the route. For the benefit of those guests who are not familiar with your home’s layout, tape to the hallway side of the bathroom door a sign indicating such, and post it at children’s eye level. Be sure to remove from the "birthday bathroom" anything that might present a choking hazard, as well as anything that might present an electrical hazard (hand-held hair dryer, electric shaver, etc.). Remove also any medicines and/or cleaning chemicals. Place all such dangerous items in another bathroom for the duration. The term “Ming Dynasty vase” means nothing to a small child. So remove from the party area all valuable and/or breakable objects. Remove also all unnecessary electrical appliances. In addition to the obvious shock hazards they present, their power cords present also tripping hazards. Bring in a portable battery-powered cassette/CD player to provide the party music. Speaking of things electrical, cover all accessible electrical outlets with safety caps if the children are not old enough to know better than to stick objects into wall sockets. Actually, if you have young children in your home, you should have taken care of this matter already. Tie back loose drapes, sash cords, and anything else in which a rambunctious child might entangle something – like his or her neck. Keep the family dog or cat away from the party area. Even the most docile pet likely will become agitated as a consequence of all of the children running around yelling and screaming and continually poking at him. Perhaps agitated enough to bite or scratch. So exile all pets for the duration. Regarding party preparations: We begin with the big question: How many adults will be needed to supervise the party? It depends largely on the age and maturity level of the children. For a party of very young children, one adult should accompany each child. For a party of older (and, presumably, more mature) children, you can get by with fewer adult supervisors. However, if the party in any way involves a swimming pool, get one adult for each child regardless of the age of the children. Do set out for the adults some finger foods and non-alcoholic beverages. But do not distract the adults - or allow them to become distracted - from their supervisory tasks. Balloons are festive, but they present also a serious choking hazard. There are cases on record where children have had balloons explode in their faces, resulting in bits of rubber being blasted down their throats. To preclude this, rent a helium tank and fill the balloons with lighter-than-air gas. Send the decorations up into the rafters where the children cannot reach them. If you plan to bestow any party favors (candies, small toys, etc.) be sure that they present no choking hazards. Have you now taken all of the above precautions? Good. You now are ready to receive the partygoers. But what do you need to do to ensure safety while the party is in progress? We will take up that question in the next edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints. Sources: The Birthday Party
Safety sites at http://www.tnpc.com and http://www.epinions.com
For the week beginning April 1, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #76 Here is the situation: You are inside an automobile that has become hopelessly stalled on the railroad tracks - and a locomotive is bearing down on you fast. Collision is imminent. What should you do? First, get out of your vehicle, of course. Then - for complete safety - run towards the train on a line parallel to the tracks. Hold on a minute, Flash. Did you say towards the train? That is what I said. Towards the train. What is this? Some kind of April Fools’ Day joke? No joke. When I say run towards the train, I am being perfectly serious. Here are the physics: When the train collides with your automobile, the debris that used to be your car will be hurled ahead and/or to the sides – but not backwards. Thus, however counter-intuitive it may seem, your path to safety lies on a line parallel to the tracks and in the direction towards the train. Naturally, stay well away from the tracks so that you do not get hit by the train. Otherwise, you will be hurled ahead and/or to the sides. Source: The Railroad Safety
site at http://www.mountain-inter.net
For the week beginning March 25, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #75 Children love to eat hot dogs. But eating hot dogs can be dangerous for children. A bite of hot dog, you see, is perfectly sized to plug the throat of a small child. And yes, you have told your children time and again to chew their food thoroughly and not to talk, laugh, or move about while eating. But, you know how it is with kids. All of it goes in one ear and out the other. What can you do? Obviously, you do not want your children to choke to death. At the same time, you do not want to be thought the ogre by denying them one of their favorite fun foods. Such a dilemma! But, as it happens, there is a simple way to resolve this dilemma. So simple, in fact, you will wonder why you did not think of it before. Are you ready for this? All you have to do is slice the hot dog in half lengthwise before you put it into the bun. After all, you cannot stop up a drain with only half a plug. Right? Like I said. Simple. Source: The Camping Safety
site at http://www.familyplay.com
For the week beginning March 18, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #74 In the previous edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, I described how to make sure that a hammer is ready to use, and how to make sure that you are ready to use it. In this edition, the second of a two-part series, we will review how to use a hammer safely (and effectively), and relate a few more general safety tips. First, here is the correct way to use a hammer: Claw hammers and other short-handled hammers are held in one hand and wielded with a forearm motion. For the optimum in both leverage and control, grasp the hammer near (but not at) the end of the handle. Position your elbow near your torso. Keep a firm grip on the tool, and bring the hammer down hard onto your work with a strong, but controlled, forearm motion. The target point should be on a line even with your right shoulder (or left shoulder, if you are left-handed). Sledgehammers and other long-handled hammers are held in both hands and wielded with both arms fully extended. Because of the weight of the head, your swing will have to be effected in two stages. Stage 1: A right-handed individual should begin with his left hand grasping the handle near the end, and his right hand grasping the handle just below the head. Begin the swing by pulling the head to your right-hand side. This will give you the momentum you need to lift the head of the hammer up and above your right shoulder. Stage 2: As soon as the head reaches the high point of the swing, begin to transfer your right hand down along the handle - even as your swing continues - until it meets your left hand. When right hand meets left, establish and maintain a firm, two-handed grip just before the head comes down hard onto your work. The target point should be on a line midway between your shoulders. And, of course, the mirror case applies for left-handed individuals. But, whether you are using a short-handled or long-handled hammer, do not put a “flick-of-the-wrist” into your swing. Adding the wrist motion will not put appreciably more force into your blows, but it could compromise your control of the tool and - quite probably - lead to repetitive motion injury. So keep your wrist (or wrists) straight at all times. Do not grip the handle so tightly that the tool does not feel comfortable in your hand. At the same time, do not relax your grip – not for even an instant. An instant is all the time it takes for the hammer to slip out of your grasp. Maintain complete control of the tool at all times. Before you actually wield the hammer against your work, test your swing with a couple of tentative blows. Make sure that your arc of motion will bring the hammer down in precisely the manner you wish. It is not necessary for you to “muscle” the nail into the board. The weight of the hammer’s head will do the work. Focus your strength on the task of keeping the hammer under control. Usually, a nail is driven into a board at a ninety-degree (right) angle. However, there are certain situations in which it is desirable that a nail be driven into a board at an oblique angle. But, whatever the angle at which you are driving a nail into a board, be certain that you “hit the nail on the head” (that is, make sure that your blows are squarely on target, so that the nail will be driven in straight). Off-target blows may, at best, bend the nail; and, at worst, send the hammer veering out of control. Of course, wielding a hammer with such precision is a skill that can be acquired only through practice. When using the claw sire to pull a nail out of a board, place a block of scrap wood under the hammer. Besides giving you more leverage, it will protect the work surface from damage. Now, a few final safety tips: Even if you have inspected the hammer carefully - as described in the previous edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints - and are satisfied that the tool is safe to use, nothing is guaranteed. And should the hammer’s head come off of the handle during use, it will fly forward with considerable force. Therefore, take no chances. Make sure that no one is standing in front of you as you work. Obeying this simple safety rule may prevent serious injury. You would be amazed at the number of jackass ways people use hammers. Always strike a nail with the face of the hammer’s head, never the top or the sides. Remember, hammers are made of hardened steel. Therefore, never strike one hammer with another for any reason; both tools could be ruined with one blow. If you need to seat a nail deeper into a board, use the proper-sized center punch implement for this purpose, never another hammer. One last thing – and do I have to say it? – if ever a friend (?) asks you to hold a stake or other large implement for him while he wields the sledgehammer, take no chances. Hold the implement with long tongs. That way, if your friend loses control of the sledgehammer, it will smash the tongs, not your fingers. That way, the two of you can remain friends. Sources: The Choose the Right
Hammer site at http://www.ehow.com, the Splitting Maul site at http://www.histriker.com,
the Maul site at http://www.loghelp.com, and The Guide to Self-Sufficiency
by John Seymour
For the week beginning March 11, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #73 The previous edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints was a treatise on the various types of hammers. This edition will be the first of a two-part series on the safe use of hammers. Hand-held hammers rank among the top five causes of workplace injuries in the metals products industry. The most common kinds of hammer injuries are (surprise, surprise) broken or badly bruised thumbs and fingers. To prevent hammer-related injuries, follow these safety guidelines: The first order of business is to select the right hammer for the job. Choosing the wrong kind of hammer can do more than just prevent you from working at top efficiency. Using the wrong kind of hammer can result also in personal injury and/or irreparable damage to the tool. The second step in the process is to make sure that the particular hammer you have selected is safe to use. Examine the hammer carefully before each use, as follows: If the metal head is slightly damaged (i.e., chipped or burred), particles could fly off of the head during use. In cases where the head is not too badly damaged, the imperfections might be machined smooth. However, if the metal head is severely damaged (i.e., cracked or split), the entire head could shatter during use, sending pieces flying uncontrollably in all directions. In cases where the head is severely damaged, the hammer likely is beyond repair and should be replaced. If the hammer has a wooden handle, check to see that the handle is not split, cracked, splintered, or in any other way damaged. A handle badly enough damaged could - quite literally - snap in two during use, which would send the head flying away uncontrollably. Damaged handles should be replaced. A loose head may fly off of the handle during use. Test the hammer to see that the head is attached firmly to the handle. Typically, a wedge or screw in the top of the handle provides the means for making the handle fast to the head. Such wedge or screw can be adjusted as needed. But, if adjusting the wedge or screw does not correct the problem, the handle (or possibly the entire tool) is beyond repair and should be replaced. The handle should be dry and clean. A handle that is wet or coated with grease or oil may slip out of your hand during use. Assuming that the tool passes inspection, the next thing to do is to make sure that you are prepared, both physically and mentally, to use the tool and to use it safely: Naturally, the best single thing that you can do to prevent hammer injuries is to get a good sleep the night before, and arrive at work cold sober and ready to go. Be sure that you are both awake and alert whenever you use a hammer - or, for that matter, any tool. Concentrate your mind on the task at hand, so that the only nails your hammer hits are the metal kind. And, of course, forego any alcohol consumption until after your day’s work is over. Safety goggles are essential when working in stone, but also a very good idea when working in wood. A splinter of wood in the eye feels just as bad and threatens eyesight just as surely as a shard of stone. If you are working in a locale where hammering is loud and/or constant (such as a machine shop), wear ear protection. Work gloves also are a good idea, especially when using a hammer that does not have padding on the handle. To preclude injuries to the feet or toes from dropped tools, wear safety work shoes. Okay. The hammer is good to go. You are good to go. You are almost ready to start swinging. Almost. In the next edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, we will review the correct way to use a hammer, as well as a few more general safety tips. Sources: The Hammer Safety
sites at http://www.ehow.com and http://www.safetyline.wa.gov.au
For the week beginning March 4, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #72 This edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints will be a treatise on one of man’s oldest tools – the hammer. Hammers come in a variety of types. Which type you should use depends on the task before you. Almost all hammers consist of two basic parts: The working part is the head (usually made of metal), which sports two extensions (called sires) set 180 degrees apart. The other part is the handle (usually made of wood), which is fitted to the head. In lieu of this traditional two-piece assembly, some modern hammers are forged from a single piece of metal. When a hammer is fabricated in this manner, a rubberized material is fitted around the handle portion for comfort. Form follows function. Some hammers have sires that are identical; some have sires that are different. It all depends on the tasks for which the tool was designed. Below, I will describe some of the most common types of hammers and their uses. Unless otherwise noted, all of these hammers have metal heads and wooden handles. The most well known type of hammer is the carpenter’s curved claw hammer. One sire of the curved claw hammer sports a round head with a flat face. The sire opposite consists of a curved two-pronged claw. The curved claw hammer is designed to both drive and remove nails. The nail-driving face of a curved claw hammer most commonly is flat; but curved claw hammers with rounded faces (called crown or bell faces) also are available from the manufacturers. A flat face will drive nails flush to the board; a rounded face will drive nails slightly below board level. The curved claw hammer is an excellent general-purpose tool well suited to perform a wide variety of tasks. Every home or apartment should have one. A homebuilder or home remodeler is more likely to use a straight claw hammer. A straight claw hammer resembles a curved claw hammer, save that its claw is longer and straighter. The straight claw hammer is preferred for such heavy tasks as nailing studs, installing sheetrock, and setting down floorboards. The long claw sire tackles such remodeling tasks as prying up boards, taking out sheetrock, and breaking up tiles (by the way, when using a straight claw hammer to break up tiles, wear safety goggles). The nail-driving face of a straight claw hammer usually is flat and smooth, like that of its curved claw cousin. But also available from the manufacturers are straight claw hammers with faces that are flat, but not smooth. That is, the face is roughened in a sort of criss-cross pattern so that nails will be less likely to slip off of the face. Some builders, particularly those who work in precarious places, prefer straight claw hammers with roughened faces. When laying brick or stone, use a bricklayer’s hammer. One sire of a bricklayer’s hammer consists of a long, square head with a flat face. The sire opposite sports a chisel-like wedge. The bricklayer’s hammer is used to cut bricks to size, tap stone into position, and remove dry mortar from old bricks. Wear safety goggles whenever you use a hammer against stone. When assembling picture frames or upholstering furniture, use a small tack hammer. A tack hammer has two identical sires with square heads that taper to small, flat faces. The tack hammer is designed to drive small nails, tacks, and brads. Its small size makes it the ideal tool for work in tight corners or other cramped places. When shaping metalwork, the tool of choice is the ballpeen hammer. A ballpeen hammer has a heavy, compact head. One sire ends in a flat face, the other in a rounded face. In situations where it is imperative that your work incur no damage, use a rubber mallet. A rubber mallet has two identical sires with wide round heads and wide flat faces. Rubber mallets are used for such specialized tasks as tapping a hubcap onto a tire rim. The rubber heads will not dent or mar the object being struck. Driving a carpenter’s wood chisel with a steel driver might damage the chisel's handle. Therefore, when driving a wood chisel into woodwork, use a wooden mallet . A wooden mallet has two identical sires with wide round heads and wide flat faces. The sires of wooden mallets are fitted with steel bands near the faces to prevent the wood from splitting. A mason’s cold chisel typically has no handle to damage. Therefore, when driving a cold chisel into stone (again, wear safety goggles), you may use a steel mallet. A steel mallet has two identical sires with wide square heads and wide flat faces. In fact, a steel mallet looks something like a small sledgehammer. Special note: In certain circumstances, it is preferable to drive a mason’s tool with soft blows from a wooden mallet rather than sharp blows from a steel mallet. When you need to break or crush stone, use a long-handled sledgehammer. A sledgehammer's heavy, compact head has two identical sires with wide round or square heads and wide flat faces. Again, wear safety goggles whenever you use a hammer against stone. A wooden maul, with its long handle, looks like a larger version of a judge’s gavel. Wooden mauls are used to drive large stakes or large wedges. Like wooden mallets, the heads of wooden mauls are fitted with steel bands near the faces to prevent the wood from splitting. Abraham Lincoln used a wooden maul to drive wedges into logs in order to make fence rails. When you need to split small logs into firewood, use a long-handled, steel-headed splitting maul. A splitting maul sports an axe-like wedge on one sire, and a sledgehammer-like face on the sire opposite. A splitting maul is superior to an axe for the task of splitting logs, as its wedge is thicker than the wedge of an axe. Another advantage to using a splitting maul is that its sledgehammer-like sire can be used to drive wedges into larger logs. Were you to use an axe to drive wedges, you would ruin the axe head. Remember, hatchets and axes are not hammers. They should never be used to drive any kind of implement for the simple reason that they were not designed for that purpose. Always use the right tool for the job. There are other types of hammers, of course. There are pointed-sire hammers for use by rock hunters, pattern hammers for use by blacksmiths, and even surgical hammers for use by doctors. But a detailed examination of these or other specialty hammers is beyond the scope of this treatise. The hammers I have described above are the only kinds that the average person will ever need or use. Okay, now you know the right hammer to use for a given task. The next edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints will be a review of the safety rules for using hammers. Sources: The Choose the Right
Hammer site at http://www.ehow.com, the Splitting Maul site at http://www.histriker.com,
the Maul site at http://www.loghelp.com, and The Guide to Self-Sufficiency
by
John Seymour
For the week beginning February 25, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #71 Not that this is going to happen to you any time soon... Here is how to escape from a pit of quicksand. The first and most important thing is: STAY CALM and DO NOT PANIC! As a consequence of all those B-grade jungle movies, the dangers of quicksand have been exaggerated. Falling into a pit of quicksand when there is no one on shore to aid you is not – I repeat, not - an automatic death sentence. Not even if you have fallen off of a cliff and now have quicksand up to your chin. You still can get out - if you keep a cool head. This is the nature of the enemy: Quicksand is composed of sand, mud, and water. Because the quicksand pit lies atop an impermeable layer, the water cannot drain. A patch of marshland may appear to be safe to traverse. And a probe of the ground with your walking staff may well convince you that it is safe. But step onto the patch with your full weight, and water will percolate up from beneath the surface. This will lower the density of the ground under your feet, causing you to sink - and with no means of attaining traction to enable you to get out. This sudden lowering of density is what gave quicksand its diabolical nickname – demon sand – and led to the myth that quicksand “sucks people under”. Keep in mind the underlying physics. Pressure equals Force divided by Area. The greater the area over which you distribute a given force (such as your body weight), the lower the pressure. The inverse applies as well. Therefore: DO NOT raise your arms above your head for any reason. Not even in an effort to grab a branch, a rock projection, or even the traditional jungle vine. The action of raising your arms above your head simply puts more weight directly over your feet. This will only cause you to sink deeper, putting you out of reach of whatever it was you were trying to grasp. DO lean back and assume the backfloat position. Yes, that is what I said. The backfloat position. You see, though it is hard to believe, the density of quicksand approximates that of water. By assuming the backfloat position, you will be distributing your weight over as great an area as possible, which should stop you from sinking any deeper. Then, make for the shore using a very, very, slow backstroke. Eventually, you will reach a point where the quicksand feels less like a liquid and more like a semi-solid gel. At that point, you may be tempted to stand. Do not do so; you may sink again. Instead, stay in the horizontal position, stiffen your body, and roll like a log over the relatively dense sand until you are back on terra firma. If you happen to have with you a walking staff, use it to facilitate your escape from the quicksand pit. Lay the staff on the quicksand crosswise to your body. Roll on top of the staff and onto your back. After you have stopped sinking, slowly work the staff down to where it is under your hips. Your walking staff will now give you extra leverage, making it all the easier to bring your legs to the horizontal position. Naturally, any additional weight you happen to be carrying increases the force, and hence the pressure. If you are lugging a backpack, some heavy equipment, or - in the case of the abovementioned B-grade movie - a solid gold native idol... ditch it if at all possible. Lose the stuff, save your life. Keep in mind that the density variant between your body and quicksand is very, very small. You can indeed float on quicksand, just like you can float on water. But you can also drown in quicksand just like you can drown in water. Therefore, any movements you make should be made slowly and methodically. Abrupt, thrashing movements will only cause you to sink deeper. Remember, your body’s natural buoyancy is one of the few physical forces working in your favor; so use it for all it is worth. Sources: The Quicksand sites
at http://madsci.wustl.edu, http://www.straightdope.com, http://www.howandwhy.com,
and http://www.newscientist.com
For the week beginning February 18, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #70 The three previous editions of Flash’s Helpful Hints have dealt with the subject of dog bites and their prevention. We reviewed the basics of dog behavior, how to integrate successfully a dog into his human family, and the rules your children should follow when playing with their own or a neighbor’s dog. This edition, the final of the series, will deal exclusively with that single most important aspect of dog bite prevention; to wit, how to survive an encounter with a vicious dog - stray or other. I will begin with a dissertation on the canine territorial instinct. The background information I am about to provide will be quite extensive; but I wish to give you a thorough understanding of why dogs behave the way they do when it comes to their "turf". It is all for the purpose of "knowing your enemy". Every dog has a territorial instinct. What that means is, when a dog finds a locale in which he is able to obtain regular meals, he will mark that ground as his turf. Because his territory is the source of his food, his turf is vital to his survival. Not surprisingly, any other living being - especially another dog - that encroaches onto his territory will be not be welcomed. A dog will defend his turf with full force and vigor. To do less would be to allow an interloper to compete with him for scarce food sources. So deeply ingrained is this territorial instinct, it has stayed with the species from prehistoric times straight through to the present day. Long after having been domesticated by man, dogs still mark their territory - even in circumstances in which it is not necessary to do so. In a home setting, you are providing your family dog with everything he needs - including his food. Yet he still will establish his turf in accordance with instincts passed down to him from countless generations past. If the dog is living in a home with a human family, that family's domicile and the lands surrounding it become his territory. If the dog is a stray, he will establish an open area (such as the alley behind a restaurant) as his turf. As I said, once a dog has established his territory, he will defend it fiercely against any other living being that is not supposed to be there. Your dog will not attack you, your spouse, or your children because he considers the members of his human family to be "part of the pack", as it were. But any other animal or person (a deer, a burglar, or a mailman) that encroaches onto his territory will be deemed an intruder. This is why dogs will not bark when family members come to the door, but will bark when strangers come to the door. Let me emphasize further this point. Dogs go into attack mode not because they themselves are being approached necessarily, but because someone or something has crossed over into what they consider to be their territory. When we read or hear news accounts of dog attacks, it sometimes seems as though the attacks were unprovoked - and, therefore, unjustified. More often than not, the victim did absolutely nothing that could be construed as a threat to the animal - and yet, he was bitten anyway. But the territorial instinct explains it all. As I said, it is not necessary to approach the dog himself to provoke an attack. Just encroaching onto the dog's turf is enough. The territorial instinct is just that strong. However, there is flip side to the territorial instinct that you can use to your advantage. As I said, a dog will defend his turf ferociously. But - and this is a crucial but - at the same time, he also will not wander far from his territory, lest it be left unprotected. That is the key. With that background, here are the specific steps you should take to avoid being bitten by a vicious dog - stray or other. The best armor is distance. The simplest way to avoid a confrontation is to steer clear of all unfamiliar dogs, only especially strays. If you stay away from both them and their turf, your chances of being attacked and bitten are virtually nil. But one day - in spite of your precautions - you may encroach inadvertently onto the territory of a vicious dog (the dog's snarling will be your first clue). Having crossed over the line, the task before you will be to get back behind the line - and without provoking the dog to attack. So how do you do that? Here is how. If a vicious dog growls and barks at you, the correct response is neither to approach nor even retreat, but to "freeze". By becoming motionless, you will be effecting a pose that is neither aggressive nor fearful. By assuming a non-threatening posture, the dog may calm down. Wait for the dog to calm down completely, then try backing away slowly. If the animal becomes agitated again, you should freeze again, and wait for him to calm down again. Keep repeating the process. Eventually, you will be fully out of the dog’s territory - and off his radar screen. Stand still and remain calm even if the dog walks towards you. It is not time to panic just yet. It may be that the animal simply wishes to go up to you for the purpose of "checking you out". If you maintain a non-threatening posture while being sniffed for your scent, the dog may figure you for a non-threat and return to his territory. After that, you can once again try backing away slowly as described above. Of course, if the animal charges towards you, he is definitely in attack mode; in which case, you will have to take defensive action. Drop to the ground, fold yourself into a ball and lie still. Protect your throat as best you can (dogs kill by going for the throat). By assuming this position, you will be protecting yourself without doing anything that the animal could misconstrue as a threat. In fairly short order, the dog probably will content himself just to get your scent and return to his territory. Then, you can get back to your feet and once again try backing away slowly. You should, of course, keep a constant eye on the animal - but only out of the corner of your eye. Looking directly into a dog's eyes is considered a challenge. In cases where you are actually bitten, seek medical advice and report the matter to the police. Naturally, stay away from any dog - even your own or a neighbor's dog - that is foaming at the mouth, staggering about as if intoxicated, or just plain looks sick. Such an animal may have rabies. Report rabid dogs to the police even if you are not actually bitten – because someone else may be! Parents, teach your children the above techniques for avoiding contact with, or escaping from, a vicious dog. Your children's best defense is knowledge. The first and most important lesson to teach your children is to stay well away from all strange dogs (even those that seem friendly) and their territory. One of the biggest reasons that children are bitten by vicious dogs - stray and other - is fear. When the animal starts growling and barking, the child's first instinct is to scream and run away. That is actually the worst thing he can do. Running away will prompt the dog to give chase, in accordance with the carnivore's hunting instinct (this is the reason why dogs chase cars). And a small child is not likely to win a foot race against some of the larger breeds. So train your children to control their fear in the presence of a vicious dog and to back away slowly from his turf as described above. One last thing: Instruct your children to keep well away from watchdogs or canine police officers. These animals have been specially bred and trained for combat and - of necessity - are highly aggressive. Sources: The Dog Bite Prevention
sites at http://www.detroitnews,com, http://www.barkbytes.com, and http://www.cdc.gov
For the week beginning February 11, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #69 The two previous editions of Flash’s Helpful Hints have dealt with the subject of dog bites and their prevention. We reviewed the basics of dog behavior, and strategies to integrate successfully a dog into his human family. In this edition, we will discuss how to reduce your children's chances of becoming victims of dog bites. First, let us review the correct method for allowing a dog to get your scent. We will begin by exploding a myth. It is a popular notion that dogs can distinguish between "friendly" and "unfriendly" scents. Not so. They distinguish between "familiar" and "unfamiliar". A dog would bite the Pope if the dog were not familiar with the Pope’s scent. So, how does one get a dog familiar with one’s unfamiliar scent? Here is the correct procedure: Ideally, the dog's master should be present and supervising. Approach slowly and kneel before the dog, presenting a non-threatening posture. Extend your closed fist backside up and BELOW THE DOG'S EYE LEVEL. A fist raised above the dog's eye level will be construed by the animal as a threat. When the dog is ready, he will sniff your extended fist to get your scent. With the dog now aware of your scent, let the owner supervise your initial petting of the animal. After that, all should be well. Now, the following are the rules by which your children should abide when playing with their own or a neighbor’s dog: 1. However anxious you might be to begin playing with him, never run up to a dog. The animal may interpret such an action as an attack. 2. Never yell and scream while playing with a dog. That just gets him agitated for no purpose. Speak softly at all times. 3. Be careful how you handle a dog during play. Hugging and petting and belly rubbing are fine. Pulling the dog’s ears, tail, or fur causes the animal pain. Not surprisingly, the dog will take whatever action is necessary to stop the pain. 4. Never grab or attempt to grab a dog abruptly. The animal may construe such a move as an attack . 5. Never touch or attempt to touch a dog’s eyes. This action may prompt a retaliation. 6. Never extend your arms towards a dog in such a way that they are above the animal’s eye level, as he may construe such an action as a threat. If you extend your arms towards a dog, be sure that they are below his eye level. 7. Do not get your face next to the dog’s face. Remember, dogs kill by going for the throat. Consequently, if you get your teeth too close to his throat, the animal may believe that you are about to attack him - which may prompt him to go for a pre-emptive strike. 8. Do not stare directly into a dog’s eyes, as this is considered a challenge. Break your gaze constantly. In situations where you must keep a continuous eye on the animal (as when dealing with an aggressive stray), do so only out of the corner of your eye. 9. Do not approach or disturb dogs that are sleeping, eating, or nursing a litter. They will not appreciate your intrusion. Moreover, they will tell you so in as many bites. 10. No surprise moves. In all cases, let the animal see and sniff you before you pet him. 11. Never reach through or over a fence to pet a dog, not even a neighbor’s dog that has gotten previously your scent. You are breaking the above rule about allowing the animal to see and sniff you before you pet him. The dog will construe your move as an encroachment on his territory, and he will respond aggressively to protect his “turf”. 12. If ever a dog starts growling, barking, or baring his fangs, take the hint and back away slowly. I realize that that is a lot to remember. But, as you can see, there is a lot to know. As a parent, it is your responsibility to teach your children everything they need to know about dogs so that they do not become victims of dog bites. Yes, yes, I know. Sometimes it seems like it all goes in one ear and out the other. Nevertheless, for your children's sake, you must try. Teach your children the above rules; and keep reinforcing those rules. In the final edition of this series, we will go over that most important aspect of dog safety. To wit, what your child should do if he encounters a vicious stray. Be here next week. Sources: The Dog Bite Prevention
sites at http://www.detroitnews,com, http://www.barkbytes.com, and http://www.cdc.gov
For the week beginning February 4, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #68 In the previous edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, I began my series on dog bite prevention with an overview of dog behavior. In this edition, I will relate some strategies that will enable you to raise your dog to be both submissive and non-aggressive. Not only are such dogs easier to integrate successfully into a human family, they also are less likely to bite. First, some preliminaries: If you are thinking about getting a dog, consult with a veterinarian before you set out for the pet shop or animal shelter. A veterinarian is familiar with the needs, characteristics, and - most importantly - the temperments of all breeds of dogs and can offer valuable guidance in selecting a breed that will fit in well with your particular domestic circumstances. Making an informed decision is especially important in cases where children are - or will be - part of the mix. After you have picked out the dog you want, have the animal spayed or neutered. In addition to not increasing the pet population, this action will - in most cases - make the dog less aggressive. Any dog is more prone to bite when it is sick; so be sure that your pet receives all the necessary immunizations, including that for rabies. If - for whatever reason - your dog develops a nasty streak, consult again with a veterinarian about possible means for reducing the animal’s aggressive behavior. If even that does not work, you may have to give up trying to domesticate this particular dog and try another. As soon as you bring the dog into your home, begin the process of familiarizing him with his new surroundings and - most importantly - his place in the grand scheme of things. You will want to encourage submissive behavior. And the most submissive thing that a dog can do is roll over on his back. So saying, roll the animal on his back and give him a nice belly rub. Dogs like belly rubs. More to the point, it will demonstrate to the dog that such submissive behavior is both accepted – and expected. A dog in the wild strives to be the “leader of the pack”, as the top position assures him the best meals, and best mates, and the best chances for survival. You must show your dog that a domestic situation is different. Let the animal know that not only will he not suffer as a consequence of being “low man on the totem pole”, he actually will be treated quite well. While it is necessary for the dog to accept his place as the lowliest member of the pack, he must also be made aware that you are – if you will pardon the pun – the “top dog”. One way to accomplish this objective is to have another member of the family give the dog a bowl of food – and for you to then take it away. The idea behind this move is to make it appear to the dog as though the third party made a mistake in bestowing the food because the action was not approved by the highest authority in the house (namely, you). To reinforce this notion, you then give the dog a smaller quantity of a different kind of food. In this way, you will make it clear to the animal that you and you alone are the one who decides who gets what. In other words, let him know who’s boss. The next order of business is to raise the animal to be non-aggressive. And no, raising the dog to be submissive and raising him to be non-aggressive are two different things. Just because the animal has accepted his place at the bottom of the family hierarchy, it does not follow automatically that he will be passive towards others. If this seems a little confusing, think of it this way: A syndicate enforcer submits to the leadership of his mob boss; but he still goes around breaking knees. The key to raising your dog to be non-aggressive is to do exactly that. Do not play aggressive games with your dog, such as “wrestle around” or “shake the rag”. Choose non-aggressive alternatives, such as “fetch the stick” and "run, sheep, run”. Now, regarding children, how you approach the matter depends on who came on the scene first. If you already have children in the house, the task is simplified. After allowing the dog to get your child’s scent, instruct him to give the dog a belly rub, just as you did. The dog will then be submissive to the child, just as he is to you. However, the process is a bit more complicated when it is the child who is the newcomer. Even if your dog has accepted his place as “last in the pecking order”, he remains a territorial animal, and one who has established your home as his “turf”. Consequently, he may not appreciate the arrival of this latest bundle of joy. Try to get the dog accustomed ahead of time to the fact that a new member of the household is on the way. Set up the crib and the other baby furniture even before the baby is due. Also, spread around some baby powder so as to get the dog used to new scents in advance. That way, when the baby arrives, it will be almost as though he had been there all along. Finally, whether the child is an established figure or a new arrival, do not leave a dog and a child under five years of age alone in the same room. If the child is physically smaller than the dog, the animal may bite the child for the purpose of establishing dominance. Do not blame the dog. That is just the way dogs do things. So make sure that you are in the room whenever the dog and the child are together. The dog will be submissive in your presence even if he has not yet submitted to being submissive to the child. When the child attains his fifth year, have him give the dog a belly rub as described above. Then, even if the child is still physically smaller than the dog, the two of them safely can be left alone, as the animal will have accepted his place below the child. Five years is a good age to do this, because it is about that time that children are able to understand the difference between live and stuffed animals. Okay, you have done all that you can to see to it that your dog does not grow up to be aggressive. You have trained him to accept his place on the “bottom rung of the ladder”. However, your children still will need instructions as to how to behave around their dog as well as the dogs owned by other families. That will be the subject for the next edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints. Sources: The Dog Bite Prevention
sites at http://www.detroitnews,com, http://www.barkbytes.com, and http://www.cdc.gov
For the week beginning January 28, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #67 What follows is the first of a four-part series about dog bites and their prevention. Though progress is being made in reducing their number, one to two million dog bites still occur annually in the United States. Many dog bites are serious enough to require medical attention. Some are even fatal. Many dog bites involve children. And the dog involved is not always a stray. Even a properly domesticated dog will bite a child - even one living in the same household - if the child inadvertently does something that the dog misconstrues as an attack. It is another example of the tragedy of innocence. How one should behave around dogs is not knowledge that children acquire instinctively. They have to be taught by an adult. Ironically, it is the child who has a dog for a pet who is more likely to be bitten by a stray. The child becomes so accustomed to playing with his own dog that he may come to believe that all dogs are equally gentle and friendly. Consequently, the child may - with all the good intentions in the world - approach a dog that is not familiar with that child’s scent. Dogs were among the first animals ever domesticated by man. This should hardly be surprising. A man and a dog together are a much more proficient hunting partnership than either a team of two men or a team of two dogs. By working together and sharing the bounty, both not only survived, but thrived. Small wonder then that the dog came to be called “man’s best friend”. That having been said, do not assume too much. Simply because dogs have been domesticated as a species, that does not mean that each and every individual dog comes into the world ready, willing, and able to share a domicile with humans. If a dog is not integrated carefully into his human family, his wild instincts will rise to the surface. And stray dogs, particularly those that have had no previous contacts with humans, can be very dangerous. In the next edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, we will review some strategies that you can employ to integrate successfully your dog into your family, particularly a family with children. These same strategies also will reduce the chances of you or your children being attacked by a dog. Sources: The Dog Bite Prevention
sites at http://www.detroitnews,com, http://www.barkbytes.com, and http://www.cdc.gov
For the week beginning January 21, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #66 If the airliner on which you are flying suddenly loses cabin pressure, oxygen masks will deploy automatically from the overhead compartment. PARENTS, the following is important: Don your own oxygen mask first. Only after your oxygen mask is secure should you assist your own or someone else's children in donning theirs. I know, I know. But you must make a conscious effort to fight parental instinct. The reason is simple: It is easy for an adult to help a child; but difficult for a child to help an adult. And the only way you can give help is if you are able to give help. Hence, you must secure your own oxygen mask first. And there is no need for concern. The brief seconds of oxygen deprivation will do your children no permanent damage. Those traveling without children should follow the same rule. Secure your own oxygen mask first. Only then should you go to the aid of children or anyone else who is having trouble donning his mask. Source: The Flying with Children
Safety site at http://www.airsafe.com
For the week beginning January 14, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #65 In the previous edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, I outlined a number of steps that motorists should take to minimize the possibility of becoming stranded on the road during a snowstorm. In this edition, we will discuss what actions you should take if - in spite of your precautions - you do become stranded. As we all know, the weather is unpredictable. One minute, you could be motoring down the highway without a care in the world. The next minute, the snow could be blowing so fiercely that driving becomes impossible. If there is no permanent shelter (private home, motel, or disaster center) nearby, pulling to the side of the road may be all that you can do. Find a spot that is completely off of the highway, yet on ground that will provide fairly good traction for your tires (this is no time to get stuck in the mud as well as the snow). Turn on your hazard flashers to warn other, less risk-averse, drivers of your presence. With luck, the storm soon will abate, permitting you to resume your journey - or, at least let up long enough to allow you to get yourself and your family to some kind of permanent shelter. However, if weather conditions do not improve or your vehicle suffers a mechanical breakdown, you may be forced to remain where you are and ride out the snowstorm through the night. If so, you must take the following actions to assure that you are found - and found alive: First, raise the hood of your car and tie a “HELP” banner or a brightly colored cloth to the car’s antennae to signal distress. Call for help on your cell phone. Tell the dispatcher your situation and location. If you have become disoriented, give at least the name or number of the last route onto which you are certain that you turned and your best estimate as to how far along that route you have travelled. Unless otherwise instructed by the dispatcher to maintain the connection, keep your messages short to conserve the batteries. The most important thing to do in a situation such as this is to STAY PUT. Do not abandon your vehicle in order to seek out assistance or permanent shelter unless your objective is visible AND less than one hundred yards away. It is much more difficult to hike through snow - especially deep snow - than you may realize. In addition, the fresh blanket of snow may conceal crevices, thin ice, or other dangers. Moreover, it is all too easy to become disoriented while walking through a snowstorm, especially at night and/or when the snow is blowing fiercely. And if you lose your way, you will really be in trouble. I say again, your best bet is to STAY PUT. The key to surviving in this situation is to employ strategies to generate and conserve heat. Your car’s heater unit can provide life-saving warmth, but you must use it judiciously. Running the engine continuously will exhaust quickly your stores of precious fuel. Moreover, it risks the possibility of carbon monoxide fumes accumulating inside the vehicle. Instead, the thing to do is to turn on the car’s engine and run the heater full blast for ten minutes. Then, turn off the engine for fifty minutes. Repeat this cycle every hour. While you run the heater, open a window just a crack to allow any fumes to vent. When you shut off the engine and heater, close the window to hold in the warmth. The windshield and windows will be the paths of least resistance for escaping heat. If possible, the glass should be covered with some kind of improvised insulation. See if you have on hand any materials that might be used for this purpose. You might, for instance, seal the windows with duct tape and newspaper. Having on hand some high-calorie food rations (granola bars, etc.) will improve your odds of survival, but eat them judiciously. All that you brought is all that you have. Watch your body for signs of hypothermia (loss of body heat) and frostbite (tissue damage resulting from a lack of blood circulation). Your fingers, toes, and ears are most vulnerable to frostbite. Keep warm mittens on your hands, socks on your feet, and a wool cap on your head. Bundle up in sleeping bags or wool blankets and prepare to ride out the storm. If you have traveling companions with you, sleep in shifts so that at least one person is awake to turn on the engine and run the heater every hour - and to keep an eye out for any passing rescue vehicles. If more than one of you is sleeping at a shift, position yourselves back-to-back to retain warmth. Try not to stay in one position too long, though. Move your arms and legs, do minor exercises, and clap your hands to keep your blood circulating. Break out the chemical hot packs in your first-aid kit if necessary, but employ them judiciously. All that you brought is all that you have. The main business of survival is done in your head. Make up your mind that you are going to SURVIVE and then DO IT. Engage your companions in conversation or sing songs to pass the time. If you believe in the power of prayer, then by all means make use of it. It is essential that you keep your spirits up and remain calm. A negative attitude leads to despair which leads to desperation which leads to panic. A positive attitude allows you to think coolly and act rationally. Eventually, a highway worker will come by in a snowplow with a nice heated cab. Just keep thinking that happy thought. Sources: The Stranded in your
Car site at http://www.maxpages.com and the Winter Survival sites at http://www.ag.uiuc.edu,
http://www.cedar-rapids.net and http://www.pioneerthinking.com
For the week beginning January 7, 2001 Flash's Helpful Hint #64 Winter weather is upon us. If the region of the country in which you live is prone to snowstorms, you will want to take precautions to avoid getting stranded out on the road. The best way to keep from getting stranded out on the road in a snowstorm is simply to avoid snowstorms. Keep abreast of weather conditions through your local radio and/or local television reports or through The Weather Channel and/or Color Weather Radar if your cable company provides such stations (and most do). Unless your trip is absolutely necessary, it is best to stay home if the weather situation is making for treacherous roads. If you absolutely must go out driving on icy roads, be sure that your car is equipped with the proper tires. All-weather radials are adequate in most circumstances; but if snowstorms tend to be heavy in your area, you will want to have your car fitted with snow tires (or at least have your tires fitted with chains) for the season. In fact, in certain regions of the country where sudden snowstorms are common, snow tires are actually mandated by law. If you have moved recently into a new area where snowstorms are frequent, check to be sure that your vehicle’s equipment is in compliance. If your drive is to be of some length, plan out your route carefully. Stay abreast of reports of road closures. If your route has been shut down, take an alternate route or postpone your trip until the weather clears. If you do decide to drive, drive only during the daylight hours. Tell a relative or friend what route you intend to take and stick with it. If you must change your route due to unexpected road closures, contact your relative or friend as soon as possible to advise him of your change of route. Dress appropriately for the weather. Donning several layers of light clothing is better than donning one layer of heavy clothing, as each layer can hold a pocket of warm air. When heading out into potentially foul weather, try not to go out alone. Bring along at least one traveling companion so that each of you can look after the other. Take your cell phone with you. Be sure that the battery is fully charged. Take the spare battery with you as well. Be prepared for the worst. Carry some winter safety equipment in the trunk of your car. Along with the usual spare tire, jack, and lug wrench, consider carrying also: A gallon or two of distilled water, for
drinking or radiator purposes.
There. You are now as prepared as prepared can be to go out driving in the snow. However, what if – in spite of your precautions – you find yourself stranded out on the road in the middle of a blinding snowstorm? We will discuss that aspect in the next edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints. Sources: The Stranded in your
Car site at http://www.maxpages.com and the Winter Survival sites at http://www.ag.uiuc.edu,
http://www.cedar-rapids.net and http://www.pioneerthinking.com
For the week beginning December 31, 2000 Flash's Helpful Hint #63 After the holiday season is over, the time will come to take down the Christmas tree. Only, now what do you do with it? Just throwing it out in the trash seems undignified, to say nothing of being wasteful of landfill space. Thankfully, there are alternatives that will give your Christmas tree a second life, a second purpose. You can chip it into mulch to spread on your plant beds. The branches can be cut off and used to cover perennial plants over the cold winter months (be sure to take them off in the spring when the perennial’s period of dormancy ends). The dried boughs can be used as kindling to start fires in your fireplace. You can lean the tree against your back yard fence, then toss some breadcrumbs on the branches and/or smear suet on the pinecones. The result: An excellent combination bird shelter/bird feeder. If you live on a farm with a fishpond, attach weights to the tree and sink it. The tree will make an excellent habitat for the fish. You can even sink a few of the neighbors’ trees as well. Finally, if none of the above suggestions are feasible, you can donate the tree to your city’s recycling program. Here is how the program works: The city collects Christmas trees and feeds them into a chipping machine. The chips are then used as mulch in city parks, or given away free to residents who can make use of them in their home gardens. Here are a few guidelines for participating in the program: First, remove from your tree all lights, garlands, ornaments (including the hooks), and especially tinsel. Remove as much of the tinsel as you can. Tinsel does not biodegrade. If you used a traditional wooden tree stand, then remove both it AND the nails. The hardwood boards and metal nails will dull the chipping machine blades. Be aware that the city will not accept flocked trees (those decorated with artificial snow), as they are not suitable for this kind of recycling. Different municipalities collect trees for recycling in different ways. Some cities will pick up the tree as part of your regular trash collection. Others require that you bring the tree to a designated collection point (usually in a city park). Be aware that curbside collection may be available only for personal residences. Apartment dwellers may have to bring the tree to the collection point. Consult your local newspaper or the Internet to get the details on the collection methods, times, and places in your area. Many people do the smart thing and wrap the Christmas tree in a giant plastic sheet to keep pine needles off of the carpet and out of their cars. But, if you do wrap the tree in a plastic sheet for transport, take the plastic sheet home with you. Leave only the tree. By the way, very tall trees should be cut in half so that each section is no longer than four feet in length. It will make it easier to transport, and easier for the chipper operators to handle. Fair warning: Do not dump the tree at a collection point past the specified dates for the recycling program. The chipping machines will be long gone, and no one will be there to collect the tree. Moreover, such unauthorized dumping is illegal. Happy New Millennium. Source: The Christmas Tree
Recycling sites at http://www.sdearthtimes.com, http://www.oznet.ksu.edu,
http://www.colostate.edu, http://ianrwww.unl.edu, and http://www.state.fl.us
For the week beginning December 24, 2000 Flash's Helpful Hint #62 Grandparents love to have their children and grandchildren visit during the holidays. But, because young children have not lived in the house for many years, it is quite easy to overlook several potential hazards. Be sure that your home is grandchild-proofed for the holidays. The berries from holly, poinsettia, and mistletoe plants are highly toxic. If the grandchildren are too young to understand that they must not eat such berries, then put the plants out of reach. Small toys make for great stocking stuffers, but might also make for great choking hazards. Be careful in your selection of toys. Mind the warning labels on the package. Speaking of choking hazards, do not set out bowls of nuts or hard candy on low tables. Keep them on high tables where the grandchildren cannot get at them. The parents, of course, will have to decide when their children are old enough (and mature enough) to eat such hard foods unsupervised. Decorations on the tree are another potential choking hazard. Keep small ornaments and electric lights away from the bottom of the tree. Better still, grandparents might want to consider getting a smaller tree – one that can be placed on a tabletop where it will be out of reach of the grandchildren. And keep the power cord out of reach as well. Happy Holidays, everyone. And be safe. Source: The Christmas Child-Proof
Home site at http://www.swmed.edu
For the week beginning December 17, 2000 Flash's Helpful Hint #61 Most families buy their Christmas trees a week to ten days before Christmas, so that the tree will remain fresh through New Year’s Day. Here are some tips on how to select a tree that is fresh - and keep it that way throughout the holidays. First, give the tree a thorough visual examination. It should look healthy all over, with green needles everywhere. The above having been said, do not depend on color alone to determine if the tree is fresh. Pick from the tree a sample needle. If the needle is fresh, it should be able to bend without breaking. Moreover, when crushed between your fingers, it should feel sticky and smell fragrant. Pull a sample branch between your thumb and forefinger. If the tree is fresh, only a few needles, if any, should come off into your hand. Lift the tree a few inches off of the ground and let it drop onto the butt end of the trunk. If the tree is fresh, only a few needles from the inside portion of the tree should come loose. Grab the trunk at a point near the middle and give the tree a good shaking. If the tree is fresh, very few needles should shake loose. Now, after you get the fresh tree home, do the following to keep it fresh: Set up a reservoir tree stand in advance. Ideally, the reservoir should be large enough to hold at least two quarts of water. Cut the bottom one inch off of the butt end of the trunk. Make your cut straight across. An angled cut will not expose any more tree ducts than will a straight cut. Get the tree into the stand and fill the reservoir with water as quickly as possible, lest sap close the tree ducts again. Maintain the water level in the reservoir. If you let the reservoir run dry, the tree ducts will close again. And should that occur, the only way to re-open the tree ducts is to once again cut the bottom one inch off of the butt end of the trunk. And that can be mighty inconvenient, especially after you have decorated the tree. This hassle can be avoided easily simply by keeping an eye on the reservoir level. Monitor the reservoir level carefully for the first two days. It is during this time that the tree will be absorbing water in large quantities. After the first day or two, the tree will have absorbed enough water to maintain fluid equilibrium, and the reservoir will need to be refilled less often. In the belief than it will keep the tree fresher longer, people have added to the reservoir water a variety of commercially available compounds, as well as such home concoctions as aspirin, soda pop, sugar, syrup, bleach, alcohol, and even copper pennies. But the consensus opinion is that just plain water will do an adequate job. Be vigilant in keeping your tree fresh, and its fire hazard potential will be virtually zero. Source: The Christmas Tree Safety
sites at http://ww.realchristmastrees.org, http://ianrwww.unl.edu, http://aq.uinc.edu,
and http://www.ext.vt.edu
For the week beginning December 10, 2000 Flash's Helpful Hint #60 In the previous edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, we reviewed some guidelines to follow when hooking up a trailer to a vehicle. In this edition, we will discuss how to drive safely while towing a trailer. First, set your vehicle’s power steering and transmission to tow. Do not overload the trailer. Stay within the manufacturer's rating limits. Make sure also that the load is as evenly balanced as possible. When towing weight behind your vehicle, allow more time for acceleration. Instead of the usual two seconds, allow for four seconds braking distance between you and the car ahead. Brake smoothly to avoid jackknifing. (If you have an independent trailer braking system, adjust the trailer brakes to be sure that both the vehicle and trailer brakes work in unison.) When towing a trailer, make your turns wider than usual, lest you clip corners. Move farther into the intersection than usual before initiating a turn, lest you clip cars. When driving on a curving exit ramp, drive on the outside of the curve to give yourself the widest possible turning radius. Signal your intentions to other drivers. Strong winds, sudden swerves, slippery surfaces, an unbalanced load, or improperly inflated tires can cause the trailer to fishtail. If you sense that the trailer is starting to fishtail, DO NOT slam on the brakes, lest the trailer jackknife. Instead, brake slowly and smoothly. Finally, if you have never before driven with a trailer, it would be a good idea to contact a driving school and get expert instruction. Sure, they will charge for the lessons - but the tuition is cheap if it prevents an accident. Source: Sentry Insurance Company
For the week beginning December 3, 2000 Flash's Helpful Hint #59 What follows is the first of a two-part series on trailers. Trailers come in a variety of types to serve a variety of purposes. Some are small token trailers in which vacationers place their luggage, thus freeing up space inside the vehicle for passengers. Some are specialty trailers, used for hauling sailboats and speedboats. Some trailers are campers or even entire mobile homes. But - whatever the type - due caution must be exercised when hitching up, and driving with, a trailer. Here are some guidelines to follow when hitching up your trailer: Carefully read and follow the instructions in the owner's manuals for both vehicle and trailer. Just like the vehicle that hauls it, your trailer needs routine maintenance. See to it. Make sure that the trailer’s tires are inflated to the correct pressure. Inspect the tow bar and base plate for loose bolts and parts. Repair (or have repaired) as needed. The tow bar and hitch weight ratings will be indicated by the manufacturer. Those are the maximum weights they can handle, so do not exceed them. I repeat, stay within the ratings. If you use a coupler type tow bar, double-check the fit of the coupler on the ball; adjust the coupler as needed. Make sure that all electrical lines are connected correctly. Test the brake lights and turn signal indicators to be sure that they are working properly. Hook up the trailer on a flat surface. Be sure that the safety chains are attached properly. Loose cables or lines should be wrapped around the tow bar to keep them from dragging on the ground. Be sure that you have a spare tire, jack, and lug wrench for the trailer. Next: Hints on how to drive safely while towing a trailer. Source: Sentry Insurance Company
For the week beginning November 26, 2000 Flash's Helpful Hint #58 Escalators do a marvelous job of conveying people from one floor to the next. However, those who use them must exercise due caution. Modern escalators have been designed to accomplish their objective with the minimum potential for injury to those who use them. They are made to operate at a speed that is comparable to normal walking pace so as to make getting on or off of them as safe as possible. The step edges are marked in yellow to enable you to see where one step ends and the next begins. Green lights beneath the steps help you to see where the steps end and the floor begins. The handrail extends beyond the limits of the steps for an extra margin of safety. The steps mesh with the floor - and each other - about as well as they can to prevent snag injuries. As I said, modern escalators have been designed about as well as engineers can design them. Most escalator injuries are the result of careless or improper use. To reduce the potential for injury when using an escalator, follow these safety guidelines: As you approach an escalator, grasp the rubber handrail before you reach the steps, for two reasons: 1) It will give you support to make getting on board the steps that much safer; and 2) it will get you into the right “walking pace” so that your stride matches precisely the speed of the moving steps. Be careful when you step onto an escalator. If you watch your step - literally - you should be able to board the moving steps without breaking stride, and step off of them the same way. Stand in the very center of the step. Do not position your feet either too far forward or too far back, lest your lower legs be bumped by the emerging steps. When riding a “down” escalator, position your toes just behind the front edge of the step. When riding an “up” escalator, position your heel just forward of the rear edge of the step. If you do not happen to step on board perfectly, do not panic. The escalator provides for a short “takeoff runway” of flat steps to give you time to reposition your feet if necessary. Likewise, a short “landing strip” of flat steps helps get you ready to step off of the escalator with the correct “walking stride”. Face forward and hold the handrail at all times, for maximum balance. Stand well away from the sides. The steps are moving, but the sides are not. If your shoe – particularly a rubber tennis-type shoe – should come into contact with the side, you could be thrown off balance. When you reach the end of the ride, step promptly away from the exit zone, lest you hamper to ability of passengers behind you to exit safely. Parents should attend their children. If your child is unable to reach the handrail, you should hold onto the child with one hand and the handrail with the other. Do not allow your child to sit on the steps, lest his flesh or clothing be caught in between steps or at the floor meshing edge. Parents will have to decide when their children are old enough (and tall enough) to ride the escalator unattended. Much depends on the child’s age. Even more depends on the child’s level of maturity. Escalators were intended for the use of unencumbered foot traffic only. No one who is so burdened with packages that he is unable to keep one hand on the handrail should use the escalator (Christmas shoppers, take note). No one with a stroller, walker, or cart should use the escalator, as he will not be able to keep one hand on the handrail. Use the elevator instead. Children, the elderly, and those with mobility impairments may have difficulty – for different reasons - using an escalator. Very young children may be too frightened of the moving steps to board the escalator. The elderly and the mobility impaired also may face difficulties. Every case is unique, of course. Some can use the escalator on their own; some can use it if attended; some cannot use it at all. If - for whatever reason - the escalator presents a difficulty, the difficulty is easily avoided simply by taking the elevator. By the way, those who wear bifocal glasses should be wary. The lower half of the bifocal lens is designed to facilitate reading by magnifying text as a person looks downward. But that same lens half might create a depth perception problem when looking downward at the moving steps, which in turn might create a problem when it comes to boarding them safely. When using a moving sidewalk, follow all of the above safety rules, plus one more: Standing passengers should stand to the right, allowing walking passengers to walk past them on the left. Source: The Escalator Safety site at http://www.tsrelevator.com TSR Elevator is a commercial manufacturer
of elevators and escalators.
For the week beginning November 19, 2000 Flash's Helpful Hint #57 In the previous edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints, we reviewed the basics of preparing your Thanksgiving turkey, with a special emphasis on food safety. In this edition, we will discuss how to serve and store your Thanksgiving meal safely. The key to preventing bacterial growth is denying the harmful organisms a place to grow. Wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling the turkey. Keep counters, cutting boards, equipment, and utensils clean. Wash cutting boards thoroughly between different foodstuffs to preclude any possibility of cross-contamination. A better strategy is to use several cutting boards and designate each for one purpose only. Glass or plastic cutting boards are best. Traditional wood cutting boards can be used, but should be discarded and replaced as soon as hard-to-clean grooves begin to develop in them. Some people prefer to carve the turkey in advance and serve the meal buffet style. Nothing wrong with that, but be aware that buffet serving presents its own special food safety problems. After you carve the turkey, remove the stuffing. Store the meat and the stuffing in the refrigerator separately. Prior to serving, re-heat the turkey slices to a temperature of not less than 165 degrees F. Re-heat the stuffing as well. Gravy should be brought to a rolling boil before serving. But, whether you serve the turkey pre-carved at the buffet or carve it at the table, remember this rule above all else: DO NOT LET THE FOOD STAND OUT MORE THAN TWO HOURS! In that amount of time, the temperature of the turkey meat almost certainly will drop below 140 degrees F, and that is when bacterial growth starts. Store leftovers properly – and promptly. In the case of a table-carved turkey, remove the remaining stuffing for separate storage. Carve the remaining meat off of the turkey and store the meat on a proper-sized platter. Store the gravy and the side dishes in proper-sized containers of their own. Do all of this as soon as the meal is over. Otherwise, you are just taking unnecessary chances with bacterial growth. In fact, make it a tradition to have everybody pitch in to clean up the table before you watch the football game. That way, the job gets done. The stuffing and the gravy generally will last one to two days; the meat and the side dishes, three to four days. Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Sources: The Thanksgiving Food Safety
sites at http://www.idahonews.com and http://info.med.yale.edu
For the week beginning November 12, 2000 Flash's Helpful Hint #56 With the Thanksgiving holiday coming up on November 23, 2000, this edition of Flash’s Helpful Hints will present the first of a two-part series on food safety. Food safety is a matter of concern for every day of the year. That having been said, the Thanksgiving feast presents special problems - not the least of which is the main course. Care must be taken in the handling and preparation of the Thanksgiving turkey. We begin at the grocery store. If you buy your turkey fresh, get it and the rest of your foodstuffs home as quickly as possible to prevent bacterial growth. If you cannot accomplish this within one hour, then bring along a portable ice cooler to keep the turkey chilled during the drive home. Incidentally, grocery stores used to offer pre-stuffed turkeys, but the United States Department of Agriculture now considers this practice to be unsafe. In case your grocer has not yet gotten the word, do not buy a pre-stuffed turkey. In the case of a fresh turkey, store it in the refrigerator. Set it on a platter, lest drippings from the turkey contaminate foods on the shelves below. Cook the turkey within two days. In the case of a frozen turkey, store it in the freezer. A frozen turkey may be purchased up to months in advance, but seal it in a plastic freezer bag to prevent freezer burns. There are three ways that a frozen turkey can be thawed safely. One method is to thaw the turkey in the refrigerator. Figure twenty-fours hours thawing time for each five pounds. To keep drippings from the thawing turkey from contaminating foods on the shelves below, keep the turkey in its freezer bag or set it on a platter - preferably both. Another way to thaw a frozen turkey is to keep the turkey in its freezer bag and place it in a cold-water bath to speed up the thawing process. Figure thirty minutes thawing time per pound. WARNING! Do not try to be too clever by half and use a warm-water or hot-water bath. Either will thaw the outsides quickly while the insides remain frozen, thus setting up the possibility of bacterial growth on the outsides. Use only a cold-water bath so that the turkey thaws evenly. Finally, you can thaw the turkey in your microwave oven, provided that it has the capability – and the capacity – to do so. Follow the instructions in your owner’s manual for thawing a frozen turkey in your microwave oven. But however you thaw a frozen turkey, cook it as soon as it has thawed completely. Oven-cook the turkey at a temperature of not less than 325 degrees F. The cooking time for a turkey is based on its weight, so be sure to set aside enough time to roast the bird thoroughly. Do not assume that the turkey is ready to eat simply because the cooking time has elapsed. Test the bird with a meat thermometer. The internal temperature should not be less than 180 degrees F. Then, test the turkey with the tines of a serving fork. No blood should run out of the punctures. Finally, make a test cut through the thickest part of the bird. The meat should not be pink anywhere inside. If the turkey fails even one of these tests, pop it back into the oven. One more thing: Though some meats can be slow-cooked overnight, a turkey is not one of them. The slow-cooking temperature is so low, it leaves open the potential for bacterial growth. Do not slow-cook a turkey. Next: Tips for serving and storing your Thanksgiving meal safely. Sources: The Thanksgiving Food Safety
sites at http://www.idahonews.com and http://info.med.yale.edu
For the week beginning November 5, 2000 Flash's Helpful Hint #55 In the three previous editions of Flash’s Helpful Hints, we discussed the basics of chain saws, and how to start and use one safely. In this edition, I will give you some advice on how to store properly a chain saw as soon as we discuss another matter – how to avoid the dreaded kickback. Kickback occurs when the saw chain teeth snag on an object as they rotate around the tip of the guide bar. This may cause the tool to “kick back” towards the operator, causing serious injury. Manufacturers do their best to make their chain saws as safe as possible - but there are limits to what they can do. Kickback guards on the tip of the blade lessen the possibility of kickback, but also limit severely the chain saw’s usefulness. Chain brakes will stop the chain saw if a kickback condition is detected; but they cannot bring the saw chain to a halt instantaneously. And even if the saw chain is not moving, its sharp teeth still can cut you badly. Preventing kickback lies largely in your hands – literally. The key to minimizing the possibility of kickback is to maintain the chain saw properly and use it safely. Dull teeth are more likely to bind and grab, resulting in kickback; therefore, keeping the teeth sharp goes a long way to precluding kickback. That having been said, even a chain saw with properly sharpened teeth can kick back if the tool is used carelessly. To prevent kickback, always cut with the edge of the guide bar. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER cut with the tip. If you must remove the guide bar from a cut (or reinsert it later), give the saw chain a little extra speed by hitting the power boost switch. Ultimately, the real business of preventing kickback is done in your head. Consider carefully what you are about to do, and look where you are about to cut. Be alert to - and avoid - conditions or obstacles that might result in kickback. Now, some tips on how to transport and store a chain saw. Be careful about how you transport a chain saw. If yours is an electrically powered chain saw, do not carry the tool by its power cord, as this will cause the electrical connections to come loose. In the case of a gasoline-powered chain saw, transport the tool with the gas cap up. Carrying the tool off level risks the possibility of gasoline being spilled, which creates a fire hazard. Wait until the chain saw has cooled down completely; then return any gas in the chain saw’s tank to the gas can. After that is done, start up the chain saw again, letting it run at idle to clear out any residual gas in the carburetor and fuel lines, thus to preclude clogging. Fit the safety guard to the guide bar or secure the chain saw in its carrying case - preferably both. Transport the chain saw secured in the back of your pickup truck or the trunk of your passenger car. A chain saw transported in the back seat becomes a dangerous projectile in a collision. If the chain saw is to be stored for any length of time, remove the saw chain completely and put it in a container of oil to prevent rust. Finally – and most important - store your chain saw and all other power tools out of the reach of children. Source: The Chain Saw Safety site
at http://www.ext.nodak.edu
For the week beginning October 29, 2000 Flash's Helpful Hint #54 In the t |